I finally got another pair of 24v drill batteries from Lowe’s . I was planning on putting the new 1.5Ah together with the 4Ah batteries. The problem is I don’t want to solder them together. I was looking into Vruzend and Battery Blocs. I’m not sure about using their products yet as I may just use the kobalt batteries and test their range (the 1.5Ah battery).
Here’s a video showing that the 2 24v 1.5Ah batteries powered the 48v 1000w hub motor. The batteries were half charged!
I bought an ebike from Amazon in order to test out my theory of single speed with 20 inch wheels. I bought a single speed 20 inch wheel e-bike. It was supposed to be foldable, but it came as a one piece bike where only the handlebar and stem could fold down . The pedals can be pressed in and folded as well . It rides great, but the handlebar, stem and fork had a problem. I had gotten into an accident and the handlebar and stem came off together as one piece. I had to replace it with a spare that I had from a Mongoose bike, and now it runs great. I have put two videos below for you to check out. Enjoy!
I bought a 26-inch wheel hub motor from online (in January). It’s 48v thousand watt motor and the controller requires 48 volts. I have 2 DeWalt 20 volt drill batteries that I tried to connect to make it 40 volts, but the light on the throttle did not light up. I plan on getting 2 batteries from Lowe’s, that are 24 volts and 4 amp hours (4ah), to see if that would work (light up throttle signal showing there’s enough voltage from batteries), since that should give 192w of power (I bought batteries and charger. I’m working on making a battery box- 3.22.18). I give credit to vuaeco (on YouTube) for drill battery idea!
I change the wire connectors on the controller to hook them up to the 20 volt drill batteries. I plan on finding out if the connectors that I used are the problem, or if I do need 48 volts for the throttle light to turn on (2 24v batteries light the throttle 3.22.18). Notice below that I made the change on the controller to different connectors (the bottom pic is what I received, and the transformation is shown counterclockwise).
It’s been a while since I wrote. I’ve been trying to think of a way to put a motor on the trike, and I was thinking of putting a mid drive motor, but the setup of the mid-drive wouldn’t be feasible with my trike, so I’m going with a electric hub motor. I’ve been doing research for a cheap hub motor with a 20-inch wheel, but it seems- worst case scenario- that I may have to use a 26 inch wheel that has a motor (since 26 inch wheels are cheaper), remove that motor from the 26 inch wheel and place it onto a 20 inch wheel. I may also just put the 26-inch wheel on the back of the trike with a hub motor and see how that rides. I’m going to need to put brakes on since the trike would be going faster then 15 miles an hour. Stay tuned…
I enjoy the program blender, which allows me to recreate the trike on the computer, so that I’m able to distinguish what goes where. It allows me to use the correct dimensions of 1 inch by 1 inch to figure out the square tubes and where each Square tube should go, as well as making the wheels of the trike correct.
Pictures below of the plan, with square tubes having corresponding colors. The diagrams will make more sense when I recreated in the real world.
The trike’s frame is going to resemble a ladder, and that would provide a majority of the support necessary to keep the frame sturdy. This is represented by the first (real) picture. The other pictures are from blender showing my idea to make a trike with 20 inch wheels for the front and back. The last picture shows what the trike looks like in a full frame.
PS please note where the crankset would be there’s going to be an aluminum plate instead. (Updated 11.29.17)
After a lot of trials, I found out what was wrong with the trike. I went to a bike shop and was told that I need to make a triangle to hold bottom bracket, that didn’t seem to really be true. I started to notice what was the problem, and it seemed it was the bottom bracket was shifting. So I wanted to test my theory, and notice that on a regular bike that you can pedal from a standstill position without too much effort. I therefore decided to ensure that my trike could pedal from a standstill. I was able to do that and there was one ride where I actually went up a steep hill. I noticed it wasn’t very difficult to pedal and I have been trying to replicate that ease of use ever since (making sure that I don’t pedal with extraneous effort). Below is a the video of my success. I know how to make this trike to be a great trike, but at this point I’m not sure if I want to continue to work on this one or go on to the next model. I just got a bike recently and it pedals fabulously, and I want my trike to be able to pedal just like it. Then I’ll know I have accomplished what I wanted to accomplish.
I bought a 1/4″ x 3″ x 2′ thick flat bar and hand sawed 2 pieces to 4 ” and put 3/8″ round holes in both. I then cut a rectangular strip leading to round hole. I attached to trike and… one of the flat bars is too thick and not allowing the wheel’s sprocket to be in the correct position (pic below).
It took about 15 minutes to cut the thick flat bar by hand and close to 10 minutes putting a 3/8″ hole (per bar). Another pic to show the bike chain has a slight slant as well as a pic to show the flat bar I cut and drilled (pic below).
There’s a nut that is keeping the cog from being in the right position. I plan on making an “indentation” in the metal flat bar to allow the nut room to shift to the right and allow the wheel’s sprocket to align correctly by drilling in the flat bar with a drill bit. Perhaps I can use my round metal file to make the job easier…
P.s. I had to put the flat bars to enable the wheel to be latch on with nuts instead of with the wheel’s “handle”.