I bought a 1/4″ x 3″ x 2′ thick flat bar and hand sawed 2 pieces to 4 ” and put 3/8″ round holes in both. I then cut a rectangular strip leading to round hole. I attached to trike and… one of the flat bars is too thick and not allowing the wheel’s sprocket to be in the correct position (pic below).
It took about 15 minutes to cut the thick flat bar by hand and close to 10 minutes putting a 3/8″ hole (per bar). Another pic to show the bike chain has a slight slant as well as a pic to show the flat bar I cut and drilled (pic below).
There’s a nut that is keeping the cog from being in the right position. I plan on making an “indentation” in the metal flat bar to allow the nut room to shift to the right and allow the wheel’s sprocket to align correctly by drilling in the flat bar with a drill bit. Perhaps I can use my round metal file to make the job easier…
P.s. I had to put the flat bars to enable the wheel to be latch on with nuts instead of with the wheel’s “handle”.
Sorry for the delay in posting, but I am able to ride the trike! It does great on flat land, but is hard to pick up speed on uneven or inclining land. I have pics below and the video link as well to get you excited!
P.S. I took apart a derailleur in order to use a cog to give tension to the bike chain.
I finally believe I have the chain aligned, but the front sprocket (cog) looks a bit crooked. I went to a bike shop 2 times today to see if I could get the trike working. Ultimately I was told a derailleur may help. I have that and plan on seeing if the derailleur makes the trike work. Pics below of progress (no added derailleur) :
First pic- I try to copy a bike and have back wheel slide in and out of trike.
2nd pic: have a screw holding backwheel arm.
3rd pic: shows process of making flat plate hold back wheel
4th & 5th pic: shows my clothesline chain guider
6th pic: I moved 2 vertical square tubes from inside to outside of frame.
PS. I am posting pics that I said I would from my last post:
The 1st 2 pics are the old version of holding the crankset. Pic 2 shows what happened when I tried to stop the trike by reverse pedaling (wood snapped in pieces)
The 3rd pic is what I currently have holding my crankset (and it’s strong!).
The posted trike from the last blog failed miserably. I was unable to steer the trike, the “enclosed” right front wheel’s enclosure twisted almost like a pretzel! The front wheels were bearing the brunt of the weight and started bending. I had a blast riding it down a decline but fell off emphatically. The funny thing is I was by a fire station and a firefighter told me it wasn’t safe to be riding down the decline!
The one thing I missed about the last version was I was able to stop the trike with my feet. Regrettably the new version doesn’t allow my feet to touch the ground, forcing me to have some mechanism to stop me. I was only able to push myself off of a wall to see if it would support my weight, and it did! I weight about 176 lbs.
Here are pics of the updated trike. The bottom picture shows my “trike spindle” and it steers well. I felt inclined not to copy the XYZ spaceframe in regards to the steering since I failed before at it (My copy of it wasn’t good). My plan is to have the crankset on a stack of woodblocks that are on top of a square tube that acts as a “spine” (pic not shown, but should be in the next post…).
Life got in the way, and I wasn’t able to post since February. Here’s a gallery of where I am at present day (first pic that’s top left is most recent, and the oldest pic is bottom right):
So much has happened that I’m going to the pics…
Going from left to right, I show the flimsy table that I’m using to complete this project. Since the weight of the trike shifts, I try to put the vertical square tubes through the hole in the fold up table to hold up the trike. I also noticed that if self tapping screws are used perpendicularly on the square tubes, the bond is stronger like the tubes were welded together. I drilled holes first and then used self tapping screws. The trike can stand vertically on its own! I have attached the back wheel (pic not shown) and have 3/8″ rods holding the wheel in.
I also started cutting square tubes and making “corner brackets”. I use a C clamp to hold a square tube and cut on a side so that the square tube looks like an L. I’m going to use them to hold the front wheels’ square tubes.
I was trying to assemble the trike and noticed that I was having difficulty doing so. I said to myself that I should pause and take pictures and find the best way of assembling the trike. I also have stopped trying to finish the trike in one day. Today I worked on the trike for about 105 minutes; around 30-35 minutes the first “session” then around 70 the second “session”. I’m working on a foldable table, so that goes to show anything can be used to make this trike!
The picture above shows the backend of the trike. The next version will have just two bars horizontally and one vertical bar. This version has 4 because I didn’t want to waste money on more tubes.
The pictures above from left to right show my process: I use my fold up table for work. I had to put a lot of square tubes under to give height to the trike so I could use a c clamp vertically (seen in second and third pics). I have the brass looking c clamp hold the correct position of the bars with a bar in between to keep the right 1 inch distance. I then put a piece of wood under the middle square tube so that the silver c clamp could hold the other piece I wanted to drill holes into. The process worked!
A quick note- the 3 square tubes that the brass c clamp is holding can be placed on the table first to make it easier to clamp them together.