Free wood!

Alright! So I went to a place in Richmond Hill (Queens, NY) to get some free wood from an ad I had seen on Craigslist. There was tons of wood! I was looking for a few pieces (which I got). There was a guy there who was extremely helpful (Tadas) and he mentioned when I found my wood and needed cuts, to let him know. The location is 130-23 91st Ave. He said I could tell people about it, so feel free to get your wood! He cut several pieces for me, and I was on my way via public transportation (I took the E train to Jamaica Van Wyck to get there).

Now home with my wood, I had to figure out how to attach it to the seat and then to the main frame of the trike. After tons of measuring, it appears drilling nails into the wood proved a problem… I drilled “test” nails in to line it up with the seat. So I put the wood under the seat, and drilled the nails up, so the area to sit had the sharp points of the nail protruding. I was planning on taking these nails out after drilling the correct way, but the nail’s head got smudged so I couldn’t take out the nail! So I just drilled in nails the correct way! Even still one of the nails wouldn’t go all the way through the seat and wood! This was a severely straining process. I just put a pillow over the seat now to see if my concept works. I still have to put handles on. I was thinking of using the wood, but am thinking it may snap if I put one piece of wood for handles. If I put more than one piece, then it may make the front too heavy. If I use wood and metal, it may still be too heavy. Then I was thinking the handle must be round since I have to put the throttle on from the Razor Scooter. It (the handlebar) must be on the outside of the frame, next to the wheel.

I recently had a dream that my trike had pedals on them and I was riding through a city. It was an encouraging dream, albeit I don’t plan on putting pedals on the trike. I am interested in the concept of having pedals, but the pedals would have to do more work then I’m entering. For example, for every revolution that I complete, the pedals would output 4 – 8 revolutions, so that the ratio would be 1:8 (ideally). I know this technology must exist out there, I just have to find it…

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Helpful hints with building with aluminum/bad drill

So in my mind, I believe I could’ve had two or three prototypes completed by now if it weren’t for a tool that I have. I have a Black and Decker PS1800 cordless drill (borrowed) that consumes most of my building time. I stated it’s borrowed, so I don’t know if I may have overcharged it and that caused it to lose its “vigor”. Sometimes it is like a horse, other times like a mule.

Tip for using bad drill: use right after charging

I believe this ensures that the power that is exerted is from the maximum capacity of the battery. Charging and letting the tool sit may drain the battery.

Tip for using time when charging drill: Cut tubes, rods, or rest (whichever is necessary).

Instead of using hex bolts which seem to be very costly, I bought 10′ steel rods and cut them. I use nuts and tighten them¬†on the steel rods where necessary.

Tip for cutting or drilling: mark where cuts or holes are to be and triple check before proceeding.

*(I noticed when drilling, wherever I put a mark and place the drill, it seems to drill to the left of the mark if the drill bit has the v slit pointed north/up from where I have placed it).

I wanted to use round tubes for the handlebars like the N55 does, but it may take a lot of work to get the round tube to attach to the square tube to turn the front of the trike. I was thinking it may be better to use a square tube and use two corner brackets per handlebar to ensure that less work is put into the handles.

Two points I want to make:

The red circles is where I plan on putting the handlebars (pic below). To put round tubes, I would need to add square tubes somewhere vertically to attach the round tubes. Using L brackets with self tapping screws (#8) to attach the square tube to the outside of the horizontal square tube may be easier to do for handlebars. The L brackets would be pointing inwards.

The blue¬†circle I plan on altering. I had steel plates with #8 self tapping screws attached to keep the two square tubes like one piece. It allowed the trike to buckle at the back, and so I’m working on putting holes in those tubes and putting rods with nuts through them to keep them unified with the frame. I noticed when removing the self tapping screws from the tubes that the back wheel totally buckled, and so I’m confident that my idea will work. I still need to drill 2 1/2 more holes since the drill got tired …

DIYNaBerTwith circles

Pic of new prototype

I’m so glad that I can make mistakes and still have a working product. I drilled so many bad holes and the trike holds together well! I have to put the seat and handles on to have the prototype that is like a “drift trike”. I have a Razor scooter that I’m going to use for parts for the trike. The lead acid batteries of the scooter only last for 40 minutes, and so I plan on figuring out how to use cordless drill batteries instead to give the trike more riding time.

The pic is below- feel free to send modified suggestions:

1)One off the top of my head would be to use a rod to go through the diagonal tubes instead of self tapping screws with steel plates.

DiYNaBerT or MiYNaBert (pronounced dye-nay-burr or my-nay-burr

DiYNaBerT or MiYNaBert
(pronounced dye-nay-burr or my-nay-burr

Back to chronicling!

So I have been working feverishly on finishing my prototype. I plan on putting a Youtube video together and thanking all of those who I looked to for help. I may even list them here at a future date.

The trike is close to being in the finishing stages. I’m going to state what happened recently, and some tidbits for mechanical help.

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I’m using square tubes in order to make a frame (1 inch). I have a very bad drill (that’s borrowed heheh) that I won’t name to stay out of trouble for now… After eight holes, the drill needs to be recharged. This is delaying me from being finished in my opinion. Measuring also consumes a lot of time, and getting the right measurements the first time is crucial when making a cut or a hole.

Tidbit 1- Using a c- clamp to hold down the square tube can allow you to use a handsaw/hacksaw to cut the metal quickly or drill holes.

Tidbit 2- Making a small hole before making a big hole with a drill is better.

Tidbit 3- Apply pressure slowly to the drill, and don’t rush!

Tidbit 4- work on changing the chemical composition of steel when drilling! (I like to pour cold water after making a dent or incision on the steel. It helps to penetrate faster. I just learned a new trick! I put the steel round tube over the stove and let it get a “black oxide” look and run cold water on it. This allowed for me to drill through with ease!)

I was trying to use 1 inch steel 90 degree elbows to have the wheels turn, but I noticed that the elbow is not “one” with the frame. I had to make an adjustment with the steering (and was inspired by the XYZ spaceframe trike). Now I’m trying to use 1/2 inch round tubes to hold 1 inch square tubes that are supposed to shift the wheels. The wheel is supposed to be held by the aluminum square tube. The wheel is held by a 3/8 steel rod. I had to make the steering portion fit my frame since I didn’t copy their frame (XYZ). I’m using a foldable table that I poked a hole in and even a drill block to make “straight” holes. I clamp metal down to the foldable table to make cuts or holes.

More to come!