So in my mind, I believe I could’ve had two or three prototypes completed by now if it weren’t for a tool that I have. I have a Black and Decker PS1800 cordless drill (borrowed) that consumes most of my building time. I stated it’s borrowed, so I don’t know if I may have overcharged it and that caused it to lose its “vigor”. Sometimes it is like a horse, other times like a mule.
Tip for using bad drill: use right after charging
I believe this ensures that the power that is exerted is from the maximum capacity of the battery. Charging and letting the tool sit may drain the battery.
Tip for using time when charging drill: Cut tubes, rods, or rest (whichever is necessary).
Instead of using hex bolts which seem to be very costly, I bought 10′ steel rods and cut them. I use nuts and tighten them on the steel rods where necessary.
Tip for cutting or drilling: mark where cuts or holes are to be and triple check before proceeding.
*(I noticed when drilling, wherever I put a mark and place the drill, it seems to drill to the left of the mark if the drill bit has the v slit pointed north/up from where I have placed it).
I wanted to use round tubes for the handlebars like the N55 does, but it may take a lot of work to get the round tube to attach to the square tube to turn the front of the trike. I was thinking it may be better to use a square tube and use two corner brackets per handlebar to ensure that less work is put into the handles.
Two points I want to make:
The red circles is where I plan on putting the handlebars (pic below). To put round tubes, I would need to add square tubes somewhere vertically to attach the round tubes. Using L brackets with self tapping screws (#8) to attach the square tube to the outside of the horizontal square tube may be easier to do for handlebars. The L brackets would be pointing inwards.
The blue circle I plan on altering. I had steel plates with #8 self tapping screws attached to keep the two square tubes like one piece. It allowed the trike to buckle at the back, and so I’m working on putting holes in those tubes and putting rods with nuts through them to keep them unified with the frame. I noticed when removing the self tapping screws from the tubes that the back wheel totally buckled, and so I’m confident that my idea will work. I still need to drill 2 1/2 more holes since the drill got tired …