It’s been a while since I wrote. I’ve been trying to think of a way to put a motor on the trike, and I was thinking of putting a mid drive motor, but the setup of the mid-drive wouldn’t be feasible with my trike, so I’m going with a electric hub motor. I’ve been doing research for a cheap hub motor with a 20-inch wheel, but it seems- worst case scenario- that I may have to use a 26 inch wheel that has a motor (since 26 inch wheels are cheaper), remove that motor from the 26 inch wheel and place it onto a 20 inch wheel. I may also just put the 26-inch wheel on the back of the trike with a hub motor and see how that rides. I’m going to need to put brakes on since the trike would be going faster then 15 miles an hour. Stay tuned…
I enjoy the program blender, which allows me to recreate the trike on the computer, so that I’m able to distinguish what goes where. It allows me to use the correct dimensions of 1 inch by 1 inch to figure out the square tubes and where each Square tube should go, as well as making the wheels of the trike correct.
Pictures below of the plan, with square tubes having corresponding colors. The diagrams will make more sense when I recreated in the real world.
The trike’s frame is going to resemble a ladder, and that would provide a majority of the support necessary to keep the frame sturdy. This is represented by the first (real) picture. The other pictures are from blender showing my idea to make a trike with 20 inch wheels for the front and back. The last picture shows what the trike looks like in a full frame.
PS please note where the crankset would be there’s going to be an aluminum plate instead. (Updated 11.29.17)
After a lot of trials, I found out what was wrong with the trike. I went to a bike shop and was told that I need to make a triangle to hold bottom bracket, that didn’t seem to really be true. I started to notice what was the problem, and it seemed it was the bottom bracket was shifting. So I wanted to test my theory, and notice that on a regular bike that you can pedal from a standstill position without too much effort. I therefore decided to ensure that my trike could pedal from a standstill. I was able to do that and there was one ride where I actually went up a steep hill. I noticed it wasn’t very difficult to pedal and I have been trying to replicate that ease of use ever since (making sure that I don’t pedal with extraneous effort). Below is a the video of my success. I know how to make this trike to be a great trike, but at this point I’m not sure if I want to continue to work on this one or go on to the next model. I just got a bike recently and it pedals fabulously, and I want my trike to be able to pedal just like it. Then I’ll know I have accomplished what I wanted to accomplish.
I bought a 1/4″ x 3″ x 2′ thick flat bar and hand sawed 2 pieces to 4 ” and put 3/8″ round holes in both. I then cut a rectangular strip leading to round hole. I attached to trike and… one of the flat bars is too thick and not allowing the wheel’s sprocket to be in the correct position (pic below).
It took about 15 minutes to cut the thick flat bar by hand and close to 10 minutes putting a 3/8″ hole (per bar). Another pic to show the bike chain has a slight slant as well as a pic to show the flat bar I cut and drilled (pic below).
There’s a nut that is keeping the cog from being in the right position. I plan on making an “indentation” in the metal flat bar to allow the nut room to shift to the right and allow the wheel’s sprocket to align correctly by drilling in the flat bar with a drill bit. Perhaps I can use my round metal file to make the job easier…
P.s. I had to put the flat bars to enable the wheel to be latch on with nuts instead of with the wheel’s “handle”.
Sorry for the delay in posting, but I am able to ride the trike! It does great on flat land, but is hard to pick up speed on uneven or inclining land. I have pics below and the video link as well to get you excited!
P.S. I took apart a derailleur in order to use a cog to give tension to the bike chain.
I finally believe I have the chain aligned, but the front sprocket (cog) looks a bit crooked. I went to a bike shop 2 times today to see if I could get the trike working. Ultimately I was told a derailleur may help. I have that and plan on seeing if the derailleur makes the trike work. Pics below of progress (no added derailleur) :
First pic- I try to copy a bike and have back wheel slide in and out of trike.
2nd pic: have a screw holding backwheel arm.
3rd pic: shows process of making flat plate hold back wheel
4th & 5th pic: shows my clothesline chain guider
6th pic: I moved 2 vertical square tubes from inside to outside of frame.
PS. I am posting pics that I said I would from my last post:
The 1st 2 pics are the old version of holding the crankset. Pic 2 shows what happened when I tried to stop the trike by reverse pedaling (wood snapped in pieces)
The 3rd pic is what I currently have holding my crankset (and it’s strong!).
The posted trike from the last blog failed miserably. I was unable to steer the trike, the “enclosed” right front wheel’s enclosure twisted almost like a pretzel! The front wheels were bearing the brunt of the weight and started bending. I had a blast riding it down a decline but fell off emphatically. The funny thing is I was by a fire station and a firefighter told me it wasn’t safe to be riding down the decline!
The one thing I missed about the last version was I was able to stop the trike with my feet. Regrettably the new version doesn’t allow my feet to touch the ground, forcing me to have some mechanism to stop me. I was only able to push myself off of a wall to see if it would support my weight, and it did! I weight about 176 lbs.
Here are pics of the updated trike. The bottom picture shows my “trike spindle” and it steers well. I felt inclined not to copy the XYZ spaceframe in regards to the steering since I failed before at it (My copy of it wasn’t good). My plan is to have the crankset on a stack of woodblocks that are on top of a square tube that acts as a “spine” (pic not shown, but should be in the next post…).