The rebuild

A lot has happened in 11 days!

  • I have to change hubs for one of the 16″ wheels (work in progress)
  • I have to change how the 16″ wheels are held (still thinking on how to perform task)
  • I tried to roll the trike down a hill and it did 1 revolution
  • I was able to pedal the trike for one revolution
  • I got 2 4′ square steel tubes
  • I found a computer desk with square aluminum tubes!
  • I stripped the trike apart

I am going to replicate the XYZ spaceframe for the rectangular portion of the trike. I was planning out how the trike should look last night.

I’m thinking the crankset is going to be vertical and I’m going to attach the crankset to a piece of wood and then to the vertical square tubes.

Pics to come!

Crankset on, but I’m not off and triking

So I met a new buddy online (drie wiel- via youtube) who’s helping me to figure out the pedals. He gave me an idea for keeping the crankset or bottom bracket of the bike attached to my trike. I carried out the idea (which is shown below). I tried to pedal the trike, but it does up to about a 1/2 of a revolution before it feels like I’m trying to push a ton of bricks with my right foot. I’m thinking I need to make the main frame stronger. I’m going to have to buy a 2″ aluminum frame and build again…

Pics are below of the bottom bracket being held by u- clamps and the trike that won’t move…

Pedal power problems…

I’m having trouble aligning the crankset with the sprocket on the back wheel. Once that’s completed, I’ll have a working trike for the people! It’s the People’s Trike! The problem at first was that it was hard to pedal! I felt like I was going to pull a hamstring muscle! I had to loosen the pieces that hold the pedals and chain ring. The force of pedaling causes a shift of the crankset.

In the picture right below, I thought I would use U bolts to hold the crankset to the trike. It doesn’t hold steady with my pedaling strength. I tried to use self tapping screws (#14) to hold the crank arm? as well. It seems something needs to hold the crank arm on the sides as well to keep it from shifting.


The picture below shows how I’m ensuring that the bike chain is fed to the chain ring and back wheel sprocket correctly (via PVC pipes). The back wheel “feed” is shown right below. Those two blue tubes are the key to keeping the crankset aligned.


Pictures of the chain feed from the middle to the back.


I’m getting there!

Here are pics of the trike in its totality.

Pedal power

I have been working on making a trike that has pedals for 2 reasons: 1) I’ve been seeing bikes up for grabs for cheap 2) It’s costly to figure out how to put an electric motor on the trike with LiPo batteries.

I found a bike and cut off the area where the crankset is and attached to my trike. I used self tapping screws to hold the bike’s crankset to the front of the trike. It seems it needs more self tapping screws since the crankset shifts when the pedals do about 2 revolutions. I have 3 self tapping screws in a part of the frame that is attached to the crankset (pics are below). I believe 2 or 3 more should solidify the crankset to the rest of the trike.

The bike chain rubs against itself and I tried to use PVC pipes to keep them from rubbing. I have to find a better method of having the PVC pipes from moving around so that the chain can slide through with ease.


Hero in a half shell- velo power!

So I have put a semi shell on the trike. I’m missing the windshield. I wanted to test the aerodynamics of the trike with the shell. I was having technical difficulties with the electric motor, and so I went down a hill. It was a pleasure to ride this thing!


PS. I got a flat tire on the left side a day later(not sure why…) and my controller seems broken. I tried “shunting” it so that the 250w motor would suck all the juice out of the battery when I hit the throttle. The motor worked the night before the test ride in the day, but not in the day…

I also plan on changing the front tires to 16″ wheels to give it more height off the street. I was dragging the trike uphill with the back wheel and noticed that the front would drag. I also plan on replacing the 3/8″ rods with 1/2″ rods for the front wheels.


Update re: shunting controller and shell

I saw a Youtube video (Davehere) where the guy says he could make the 250w motor that comes with the razor scooter not limit the current. I watched what he did and tried to replicate, and it didn’t work. Worse yet, I took the “shunt” off and the throttle sends a signal to the controller, but just makes a clicking sound. I don’t know what the problem is. I really don’t want to buy another controller…


I’m working on putting a shell on the trike/velomobile. I bought pvc pipes and made a glider type of configuration from the pipes. I’m in the process of putting coroplast over it. The pvc pipes are cylindrical. I have to see if I can find square tubes in the future. Pictures to come later.

“Tie” plate works!

So I was able to test my idea of putting a “tie” plate on the hub. It worked! I was able to get the sprocket to hold onto the “tie” plate so that the sprocket would be centered on the wheel.


The trike still can’t pull me along, so I plan on getting either another battery for torque, or a motor with more watts. I saw a motor on amazon with 500 watts. I hope that one works.