So much has happened that I’m going to the pics…
Going from left to right, I show the flimsy table that I’m using to complete this project. Since the weight of the trike shifts, I try to put the vertical square tubes through the hole in the fold up table to hold up the trike. I also noticed that if self tapping screws are used perpendicularly on the square tubes, the bond is stronger like the tubes were welded together. I drilled holes first and then used self tapping screws. The trike can stand vertically on its own! I have attached the back wheel (pic not shown) and have 3/8″ rods holding the wheel in.
I also started cutting square tubes and making “corner brackets”. I use a C clamp to hold a square tube and cut on a side so that the square tube looks like an L. I’m going to use them to hold the front wheels’ square tubes.
I was trying to assemble the trike and noticed that I was having difficulty doing so. I said to myself that I should pause and take pictures and find the best way of assembling the trike. I also have stopped trying to finish the trike in one day. Today I worked on the trike for about 105 minutes; around 30-35 minutes the first “session” then around 70 the second “session”. I’m working on a foldable table, so that goes to show anything can be used to make this trike!
The picture above shows the backend of the trike. The next version will have just two bars horizontally and one vertical bar. This version has 4 because I didn’t want to waste money on more tubes.
The pictures above from left to right show my process: I use my fold up table for work. I had to put a lot of square tubes under to give height to the trike so I could use a c clamp vertically (seen in second and third pics). I have the brass looking c clamp hold the correct position of the bars with a bar in between to keep the right 1 inch distance. I then put a piece of wood under the middle square tube so that the silver c clamp could hold the other piece I wanted to drill holes into. The process worked!
A quick note- the 3 square tubes that the brass c clamp is holding can be placed on the table first to make it easier to clamp them together.
A lot has happened in 11 days!
- I have to change hubs for one of the 16″ wheels (work in progress)
- I have to change how the 16″ wheels are held (still thinking on how to perform task)
- I tried to roll the trike down a hill and it did 1 revolution
- I was able to pedal the trike for one revolution
- I got 2 4′ square steel tubes
- I found a computer desk with square aluminum tubes!
- I stripped the trike apart
I am going to replicate the XYZ spaceframe for the rectangular portion of the trike. I was planning out how the trike should look last night.
I’m thinking the crankset is going to be vertical and I’m going to attach the crankset to a piece of wood and then to the vertical square tubes.
Pics to come!
So I met a new buddy online (drie wiel- via youtube) who’s helping me to figure out the pedals. He gave me an idea for keeping the crankset or bottom bracket of the bike attached to my trike. I carried out the idea (which is shown below). I tried to pedal the trike, but it does up to about a 1/2 of a revolution before it feels like I’m trying to push a ton of bricks with my right foot. I’m thinking I need to make the main frame stronger. I’m going to have to buy a 2″ aluminum frame and build again…
Pics are below of the bottom bracket being held by u- clamps and the trike that won’t move…
I’m having trouble aligning the crankset with the sprocket on the back wheel. Once that’s completed, I’ll have a working trike for the people! It’s the People’s Trike! The problem at first was that it was hard to pedal! I felt like I was going to pull a hamstring muscle! I had to loosen the pieces that hold the pedals and chain ring. The force of pedaling causes a shift of the crankset.
In the picture right below, I thought I would use U bolts to hold the crankset to the trike. It doesn’t hold steady with my pedaling strength. I tried to use self tapping screws (#14) to hold the crank arm? as well. It seems something needs to hold the crank arm on the sides as well to keep it from shifting.
The picture below shows how I’m ensuring that the bike chain is fed to the chain ring and back wheel sprocket correctly (via PVC pipes). The back wheel “feed” is shown right below. Those two blue tubes are the key to keeping the crankset aligned.
Pictures of the chain feed from the middle to the back.
I’m getting there!
Here are pics of the trike in its totality.
I have been working on making a trike that has pedals for 2 reasons: 1) I’ve been seeing bikes up for grabs for cheap 2) It’s costly to figure out how to put an electric motor on the trike with LiPo batteries.
I found a bike and cut off the area where the crankset is and attached to my trike. I used self tapping screws to hold the bike’s crankset to the front of the trike. It seems it needs more self tapping screws since the crankset shifts when the pedals do about 2 revolutions. I have 3 self tapping screws in a part of the frame that is attached to the crankset (pics are below). I believe 2 or 3 more should solidify the crankset to the rest of the trike.
The bike chain rubs against itself and I tried to use PVC pipes to keep them from rubbing. I have to find a better method of having the PVC pipes from moving around so that the chain can slide through with ease.
So I have put a semi shell on the trike. I’m missing the windshield. I wanted to test the aerodynamics of the trike with the shell. I was having technical difficulties with the electric motor, and so I went down a hill. It was a pleasure to ride this thing!
PS. I got a flat tire on the left side a day later(not sure why…) and my controller seems broken. I tried “shunting” it so that the 250w motor would suck all the juice out of the battery when I hit the throttle. The motor worked the night before the test ride in the day, but not in the day…
I also plan on changing the front tires to 16″ wheels to give it more height off the street. I was dragging the trike uphill with the back wheel and noticed that the front would drag. I also plan on replacing the 3/8″ rods with 1/2″ rods for the front wheels.